Bridging Heritage and Innovation in India’s Jewellery Industry
Aneesh H Kumarr
Head-New Product Development
Novel Jewels, Aditya Birla Group Jewelley Business
Jewellery is at the heart of India’s culture, a symbol of tradition, emotion, and craftsmanship. It holds a significant place in life’s milestones and celebrations, making it an integral part of the country’s identity. Over the years, as consumer expectations have evolved, the jewellery industry has seen an exciting transformation. The need for sustainable, ethical, and personalised jewellery has never been greater, demanding innovation at every level—from design to execution. With over 18 years of distinguished experience in the gems & jewellery industry, Aneesh H Kumarr, Head of New Product Development at Aditya Birla Group’s Novel Jewels, has worked with two of India’s most prestigious conglomerates—Tata and Aditya Birla—leading product development efforts that bridge the gap between heritage and modernity. Holding a ‘Lean Six Sigma Green Belt’ in Jewellery Manufacturing, his approach blends timeless Indian craftsmanship with contemporary trends, ensuring that every piece of jewellery resonates with today’s consumers while staying true to cultural roots. He is also recognised as a ‘Certified Emerging Leader’ and have shared his expertise as a guest speaker on jewellery design and development at the Vogue Institute of Art & Design and the Athena School of Management.In his current role, Aneesh has made significant strides in enhancing the product development process. He has built and led a dynamic team, created over 16,000 new prototypes, and contributed to the creation of one of the most exciting jewellery brands, “Indriya.” With a focus on regional flavour, sustainability, and personalisation, Aneesh’s leadership continues to push boundaries. His expertise in innovation is also evident in his three patents in the industry. His vision and collaborative approach have helped shape the future of luxury jewellery in India, making a lasting impact on the industry’s evolution and consumer experience. Speaking with TradeFlock, Aneesh delves deeper into his journey.
I ADVISE ASPIRING DESIGNERS TO BALANCE TRADITION WITH INNOVATION— UNDERSTANDING INDIA’S RICH JEWELLERY HERITAGE WHILE STAYING ATTUNED TO GLOBAL TRENDS
What challenges did you face building your team and fostering collaboration?
Building an NPD team from scratch was challenging yet rewarding. Sourcing experienced professionals was difficult, but by leveraging my network and setting clear goals, I found the right fit. Aligning individuals from diverse regions and categories was another hurdle. To overcome this, I fostered an inclusive culture, encouraged open communication, and implemented processes that empowered autonomy. This approach led to exceptional results, particularly in the creation of innovative new prototypes. The collaborative effort across regions was key to our success.
How do you define success as a young leader in the jewellery industry, and what’s your biggest achievement?
Being recognised in the “40 Under 40” list is truly an honour, and I am grateful for the acknowledgment. To me, success means driving meaningful change, fostering innovation, and creating products that resonate with customers. I strive for excellence and encourage others to push boundaries. My biggest achievement is establishing the NPD function from scratch. Innovating prototypes, securing patents,and building a team that blends regional craftsmanship with global aspirations are milestones I’m proud of.
What outside activities keep you motivated and creative?
Creativity has always been a part of who I am. My passion for art led me to pursue a double diploma in Fine Arts and Jewellery Design, which shapes my design approach. Traveling across India has been a great source of inspiration, as each region’s artistry influences local jewellery traditions. I also draw ideas from fashion, architecture, and technology, where tradition meets modernity. Fitness—physical and mental—helps me stay focused, while being surrounded by creative individuals keeps me inspired.
How did you ensure quality and innovation while creating thousands of prototypes in under a year?
Creating thousands of prototypes in under a year was a significant challenge that required strategic planning and seamless collaboration. In fact, me being a ‘Certified Innovator’ from Erehwon Innovation Consulting helps me to maintain quality and innovation. We implemented a streamlined process involving close coordination between design, production, and quality control teams. Breaking the NPD process into manageable stages ensured consistency and efficiency. We fostered a culture of creativity and continuous learning, encouraging both technical precision and innovation. Regular cross-functional meetings allowed us to address challenges promptly. Additionally, leveraging technologies like CAD and 3D printing enhanced our efficiency, ensuring high-quality prototypes at scale without compromising design. This approach met the industry’s high demands while maintaining excellence.
What advice do you give aspiring jewellery designers looking to break into the industry?
While I am still learning and growing myself, I’m happy to share the lessons I’ve gained so far. I advise aspiring designers to balance tradition with innovation—understanding India’s rich jewellery heritage while staying attuned to global trends. It’s also crucial to learn the business side of jewellery, as creativity must align with market demand. Resilience is key in this competitive industry, but authenticity and hard work are the true foundations of success. I encourage continuous learning and seeking feedback from mentors. Being adaptable to shifting preferences and new technologies is crucial. Growth is a constant journey for all of us.
What trends will shape the jewellery industry in the next 5 to 10 years, and how will you adapt?
The jewellery industry is set for transformation, with sustainability and ethical sourcing taking center stage as consumers prioritise social and environmental responsibility. Emerging technologies like AI, blockchain, and 3D printing will reshape the sector. AI will enable personalised designs, while blockchain ensures transparency in supply chains. 3D printing will enable on-demand production and customisation, reducing waste. Personalisation will remain key, and e-commerce and virtual try-ons will drive digital transformation. To stay ahead, flexibility, investment in technology, and a commitment to craftsmanship are essential.
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